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	<title>Bonsai Pictures &#187; shaping bonsai</title>
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		<title>Training and topiary</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Aug 2009 21:13:40 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Articles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai gardening]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Bonsai Trees]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[shaping bonsai]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Branch pruning First things first, always use very sharp tools, ideally sterilised by immersing them in methylated spirits for a few minutes. If you do not have any proper bonsai tools, use sharp pruners make sure that the non-cutting blade &#8230; <a href="http://www.bonsai-pictures.com/training-and-topiary">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Branch pruning</h3>
<p><img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-right alignright" src="http://www.bonsai-pictures.com/wp-content/gallery/bonsai/bonsai-7.jpg" alt="Bonsai_Pictures.jpg" /></p>
<p>First things first, always use very sharp tools, ideally sterilised by immersing them in methylated spirits for a few minutes.</p>
<p>If you do not have any proper bonsai tools, use sharp pruners make sure that the non-cutting blade is furthest furthest away from the trunk. It will heal more neatly if you create a slight hollow in the exposed wood.</p>
<p>Clean up the edges of the wound with a very sharp knife. Seal the wound thoroughly, especially around the edges try mixing a little olive oil with grafting wax or modelling clay, this does the job of sealing very nicely.<span id="more-201"></span></p>
<p>Ragged edges heal unevenly and if you do not clean up properly you are likely to harbour fungal spores around the wound and that may later infect the whole tree.</p>
<h4>Shaping  Bonsai branches with wire</h4>
<p>Wiring is the most fundamental process in bonsai training&#8217;, allowing the accurate positioning of branches and shoots. Follow these simple steps.</p>
<p>BASIC BONSAI TECHNIQUE</p>
<p>A healthy young bonsai -say up to ten years old -in a small pot will pack its container with roots within one season, so it will need to be root pruned each year. Older trees, especially conifers, tend to grow more slowly, taking perhaps up to five years to fill the pot.</p>
<p>However, it takes time for problems associated with root confinement to take effect, and you can miss a year every so often without putting your tree at risk. The ideal time for root pruning is just as the roots begin to grow in spring.</p>
<p>Although it is possible to re-pot at any time during the dormant season, the longer the wounds wait before they can regenerate, the more they are at risk of further damage from frost and fungal attack.</p>
<p>After re-potting, wait two weeks before heavy pruning, and delay feeding for four to six weeks, or until new growth has been established.</p>
<p>Wiring involves coiling wire of a suitable gauge around a branch or shoot and maneuvering the two into the desired position. After a period of growth, the branch will be set in position and you can remove the wire.</p>
<p>Conifers, especially junipers, may take several years to set, during which time you may need to remove and reapply the wire several times to avoid damaging the bark. Some deciduous species may start in a matter of weeks. The principle of wiring is simple, but the skill takes a little time to acquire.</p>
<p>Practice wiring on a twig or branch from a garden shrub, similar to your chaser bonsai. The branch will bend without breaking. Remove the wire with bonsai wire cutters; although it seems wasteful, do not reuse the wire, as it will be kinked and difficult to manipulate.</p>
<p>Always hold the wired part so that you hold as much of the of the branch firmly with one hand branch as possible and use both decreases. Overlap the different thicknesses by two or three turns and coil the wire with the other. Spread your hands, and use your thumbs as leverage points.</p>
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